Kuta Reef: Up Close and Personal

The wave was bigger and there were only two guys out at the second reef, so I told the boat driver to drop me off there.  I made a habit of chatting with people when I first entered the water to bring a chill vibe to the line-up.  I found this especially crucial when traveling solo, because just by exchanging a few words, I was not alone anymore.

The two guys I joined in the water charged.  They dropped in late and deep on translucent, solid six foot set waves.  Both their surfing and bodies displayed art and style, as they were adorned in colorful tattoos.  I noticed that one of the guys had a series of numbers tattooed over his muscular abdomen, and the other had Maroubra tattooed over his shoulders.  I told them I was from Cocoa Beach, Florida, and they said they were from a beach outside of Sydney.  That statement cemented my suspicions; I was surfing with Bra Boys.  I remembered their motto that I always thought was so hard core, ‘Blood is thicker than water.’  We shared waves and in between the sets we talked about different spots that I surfed in Australia. 

As we discussed the last ground swell in OZ, after a longer lull than usual, I noticed a freak set approaching and shouted, “Outside!”  We all paddled hard for the horizon.  I duck dived two waves, and the last one tore the board out from under me.  I gripped the board tight and held it above my head.  I knew never to let go of my board, because my board would float and eventually bring me to the surface.  I felt something under me.

When I got air, I realized that I landed right on top of Paul, one of the guys, and I was straddling his back like he was a horse!  He reached the surface and gasped for a breath.  My first thought was that I was going to get beat- I had messed with a Bra Boy!  I asked him if my board hit him and if he was alright.  He was laughing and said he just felt something soft on top of him, and that he hoped to get to the surface soon.  Then we both started laughing, and he joked, “Well, that is a different way to mount a man!”

I could not have done that if I tried!  We laughed and continued to dominate the solid, fast waves, and every time a set came I would yell “Spread out!”  I knew I would never forget dropping in on that session at Kuta reef two.  

By: Melissa Diamond

Next Surf Story: Mexico, Shark Attacks and Point Breaks